The Mountain Awaiting the Moon

“Here at my hermitage at the base of the mountain awaiting the moon, I recall the glories of past as the moon slowly descends into the western sky.”

-Ashikaga Yoshimasa, 15th century Shogun and founder of Ginkaku-ji

We begin at Ginkaku-ji, also known as The Silver Pavillion. Ginkaku-ji’s architecture and gardens display a dignified beauty and purity unmatched in Japan’s history. It is one of the crown jewels of Kyoto’s historical legacy-once even called “the soul of Japan”. When created in the 1490’s, this estate was the center of “Higashiyama Culture’. Fine arts including the tea ceremony, flower arrangement, Noh theater, black ink painting, incense smelling, and garden design flourished on these grounds.

As we make our way south along the Tetsugaku no Michi (commonly known as The Philosopher’s Path) we walk along the canal and have the chance to browse a variety of quaint shops, ateliers, cafes and galleries. Along the way we enter into two temples deeply connected with the Pure Land Buddhist faith.

Our journey ends at the majestic Heian Jingu, one of the of the highest ranking shrines in all of Japan. As we will walk through the expansive garden, which many visitors oddly skip, you will have the chance to view some of the most picturesque scenes in all of Kyoto.

SITES VISITED

GINKAKU-JI To avoid the crowds I always aim to arrive here either first thing in the morning or in the last hour before it closes. This is personally one my favorite spaces in all of Kyoto and space that makes me feel something that few others do. I highly recommend making it here while you are in town.

TETSUGAKU NO MICHI Famously known as “The Philospher’s Path”, this walk can admittedly become quite busy during the April cherry blossom season. Other than that period, this path on the eastern edge of town is a wonderful place to visit to avoid the commotion of the city. As you seemingly float along this neighborhood trail you will have the chance to see beautiful plants, interesting homes, and a wide array of local businesses. Of special note are the numerous art galleries and small ateliers. This neighborhood is home to many wonderful local artists who, although often quite soft spoken, are very eager to interact with their guests.

HONEN-IN This is like a secret land away from the rest of the world. Just a short walk up from the Philosopher’s Path, this temple located in the densely wooded forest was founded by Honen, the founder of the Pure Land Buddhist sect in Japan. As this form of Buddhism has been the most heavily persecuted throughout history, the ambience of this site seems to magically capture the enduring spirit of Honen’s devotion to the Pure Land practice.

EIKANDO-DO Located at the end of the Philosopher’s Path, the grounds of this temple seem to be home to a never ending collection of massive architectural works, mesmerizing gardens and stunning paintings and statuary. One note- this is one of the most popular autumn leaf viewing sites in all of Kyoto and it is not recommended to visit during that time if you are hoping to avoid the crowds.

HEIAN JINGU This shrine is a very well known site for visitors to Kyoto. For some reason though very few visitors enter into the garden. This sprawling, stroll-garden created by the well-respected Ogawa Jihei, is one the garden masterpieces of the Meiji era. Beautiful in all seasons, this is a truly unique space in Kyoto and will leave you feeling impressed and inspired.

MEETING POINT: Eikan-do
LENGTH: 4.5 hours
RESERVE